NZ has to be the most environmentally aware place on earth, you can't do anything without being reminded of the effect you're having on the planet, and on NZ in particular. Which is fair enough, it may be beautiful and seems full of fantastic animals, but the numbers are tiny proportions of what they used to be. There were lots of reminders on today's whale watching trip, but the sperm whales here in Kaikoura don't seem to hold it against us and put on a top show. The moment when they stop lounging on the surface, flick their tails in the air and set off for the depths in search of another 200 kg of squid, is the moment when all the cameras click. Except mine, which was unfortunately still in the hostel, but Zoe has a better camera anyway so this is probably a far better shot than any I'd have taken.
It's one of the truisms of travelling that you keep bumping into the same people. So far, I've only one such stalker, Marco from Italy, who I met in Te Anau (he had the bunk under mine). And Stewart Island. And Dunedin. And now here - he's in the bed opposite me in the dorm tonight. Can't decide which of us is feeling more uncomfortable about this, we haven't really had a proper conversation yet, but I suppose I'd better start one at some point if this is going to keep happening.